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Sewing the Boheme bralette (Etoffe Malicieuse) and it’s panty

10 Commentaires

And here is my 1st Boheme bralette, still a Malicious Cloth pattern as promised some time ago!  I say first because I’m sure I’ll make other Boheme bralettes…

ITEM SHOP QUANTITY PRICE
Bohème bralette pattern Gifted by a friend   0 €
Parme stretch lace ≈ 16 cm wide Gifted by a friend 0,60 m 0 €
Viscose jersey silky stretch berry (chutes) Stragier 0,1 m 0 €
Black powernet Mercerie extra 0,2 m 1,40 €
Black bra strap Ecolaines 1 m 2,60 €
Wide latex elastic Mercerie extra 2 m 0,20 €
Rings Aliexpress 5 0,50 €
Threads Stock 0 €
Total     6,70 €

 

The Boheme bralette pattern

I’ll make some more because the Boheme bralette pattern is a multi-option pattern.

On one hand, there are  3 versions of bralettes (with underbust band in lace, in fabric or just an elastic band) and, on the other hand, there is also a babydoll version.

In addition in all these versions you can also choose from 4 back variants.

The Boheme bralette is a triangle bra with the cup in 2 parts. The pattern is also designed for stretch lace using the scalloped edge on the sides of the cups.

Ooh pretty!

Otherwise, I won’t redo the long-winded description on the Etoffe Malicieuse patterns but you will find all the necessary informations: fabric tips, elastics, cutting plans, how to cut lace, the different stitches needed, etc. Perfect for lingerie beginners.

Sewing the Boheme bralette

To sew this bralette, I had a scrap of about 30-40 cm of this lace. I might as well tell you that I didn’t have too much extra… #nosafetynet

It forced me to sew version 2 of the pattern: the version with an underbust band with a wide covered elastic. The version 1 with the lace band clearly did not fit in the coupon!

But where I was lucky was that I also had a mini piece of this viscose jersey (used for my Orelia blouse) right on the mark in the right colour to make the under-bust band.

This is destiny!

Cups

The edges of the cups are supported by a thin elastic band hidden by the powernet lining. This ensures that they do not gap and relax over time.

Step by step does not offer this elastic support for the unlined version of the cups. However, I think it’s a much better idea if you can get your hands on a thin elastic band for lingerie.

Indeed, it will be directly on the skin and potentially slightly visible through the lace, so you need a suitable elastic.

I find that the black powernet lining adds depth to the color of this lace.

The instructions on how to assemble the burrito/scabbard are crystal clear (even though I don’t need it so much anymore) and it’s when it’s really classy like that, isn’t it?

Be careful, the instructions talk about sheer cup lining in the step-by-step but about powernet in the fabric recommendations.
In my opinion, for this bralette, you need powernet (bi-stretch) and not sheer cup lining (non-stretch – stable).

Underbust band

The only puzzle: how do I fit my 2 cm wide elastic into the viscose jersey without too many visible seams?

Indeed, the pattern’s explanations did not convince me. Did I misunderstand them?

Anyway, I fumbled around, examined my Queenie swimsuit (where I had the same problem but I forgot how I had done it), sewed and unsewn, I found a solution… and I forgot again how I did it this time too!

#airhead

To measure the length of the elastic that would support the twins, I simply wrapped the chosen elastic around my bust, tightened it just enough and noted the right size. + 3 cm to sew the ends together by superimposing them.

Back & straps

For the back, I wanted to make a lace version.

From the remains of my scrap, only the triangle version was possible. And even so, I redesigned the piece smaller and without scalloped edges to make it fit.

So, I also modified the assembly to add a lining to this piece. Given my sensitivity, it’s completely out of the question to have a seam that scratches my middle back.

Finally, I also deviated from the instructions for the straps since I made 2 of them with rings at the end of the cups instead of a “single” strap that goes through the back ring and is sewed directly to the tips of the cups.

But all my changes are essentially a matter of personal preference. There are always several ways to do things right.

Sew a matching panty in the scraps

Finally, I decided to sew matching panties… but I really only had a few square centimetres of lace left.

So I created a mini-insert by modifying my favorite panty pattern: Acacia panties.

This insert is of course also lined… my sensitive skin and all that.

And here’s the whole set!

Conclusion

So, I’ve spoiled you from the start, but I’m definitely gonna sew some more. As a matter of fact, you can see the cups fit me perfectly

And even for a “simple” triangle bralette pattern, it’s not easy to find the perfect cup fit. You only have to look at my scuba bralette and it’s creases.

So it’s an excellent base for lots of variations & hacks… if you still need to hack the pattern because of the number of versions included!

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10 Commentaires

  • 8 July 2020 at 21:16
    Isabelle

    Elle est vraiment jolie cette brassière, elle me ferait envie, mais pas pour moi, team gros lolo ! mais ça me plairait de la faire pour ma fille.
    Enfin pour le moment, je suis surchargée de commande pour elles…. ça peut être un joli projet de cadeau .

    Reply
    • 10 July 2020 at 10:48

      Ah ben oui, c’est sûr que ça dépend de la taille de la poitrine. Ceci étant, cela peut peut-être se tester avec un élastique large sous la poitrine. Ca soutient vraiment pas mal… mais pas pour faire du sport bien sûr 😉

      Reply
  • 8 July 2020 at 22:07
    Morgane

    Très joli cet ensemble ! J’aime la couleur bien pétante.

    Reply
    • 10 July 2020 at 10:46

      J’étais pas sûre de cette couleur au début, mais une fois cousu, je la trouve trop belle.

      Reply
  • 9 July 2020 at 06:35
    Fanfreluche

    Très jolie brassière ! Je suis admirative de la précision de tes réalisations en lingerie, avec toutes ces mini boucles, la doublure et l’élastique. Tout est impeccable. Bravo.

    Reply
  • 9 July 2020 at 09:06
    La Gauchère

    Pas encore testé de patron de lingerie à part une culotte, mais tes réalisations sont très chouettes! Bonne journée!

    Reply
    • 10 July 2020 at 10:39

      Merci ! J’espère que j’arriverai à te convaincre 😉

      Reply
  • 10 July 2020 at 12:21
    Falbala

    J’adore cette brassière, c’est tout à fait mon style (cause petits lolos). Elle est superbement réussie et le rappel sur la culotte est très inventif compte tenu de ce qui restait.. Bravo!!

    Reply
  • 11 July 2020 at 15:56
    violette

    c’est vrai qu’il est très sympa ce patron a mettre dans les favoris ^_^
    tu n’as pas mis de clips pour l’ouvrir ? tu l’enfiles alors ? en tout cas je n’en ai pas vu
    est ce que c’est prévu dans le patron ?

    Reply
  • 14 July 2020 at 08:21
    Rachel

    Ta brassière est très jolie et seyante !

    Reply

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