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soutien-gorge Harriet

Sewing my underwear: ups & down (part 1: Marla, Acacia & Harriet)

Hi you! Today I am embarking on a series of slightly different articles. I’m going to tell you – trying not to make you nose too quickly – my adventures in sewing my underwear. From panties to bra with and without underwire through the swimsuit, I have now tested a lot of tricks and brands … So in this #BRAugust2019 , I thought it might be interesting? 

shorty Mme Marla

Sewing my panties

Actually, sewing my underwear wasn’t really something I did even imagine to do when I started sewing. And then, I came across patterns of panties and bras and brassieres. Back in my archives, I found my first shorty dating from March 2018. 

The panties and shorties, frankly, aren’t complicated projects. With the Ms. Marla shorty  on the left, I was able to dodge the elastics. And elastics are probably the most difficult thing to master for sewing panties.

There are plenty of free or cheap bosses very well done to get you started. In addition, you can use your jersey knit remnants. Be careful, it works better with cotton jersey with a bit of spandex. I tested with modal jersey. not so good.

I even made a list of brands of underwear patterns with a list of free patterns: 

Liste des patrons de lingerie (dont 14 gratuits)

As a result of this first toe in the water, followed a long time to observe the achievements of others on Instagram and, then, I bought the Watson Bra by Cloth Habit … still without getting anything really done. And finally, Marie Poisson announced a Master Class for october to learn to sew underwire bras.

Learn how to sew a bra with Marie Poisson

Sewing a bra underwire was not really in my projects but as long as I take a class, I can go for the most complex technique from my point of view.

Before the Master Class

A few weeks before the class, Marie sent us the course material, a notebook with the program, a list of compatible patterns for the Master Class and explanations for choosing our size. For the patterns, Marie advises 4-5 choices of bra models that allow to start smoothly with her: the Marlborough or Boylston of Orange Lingerie, the Harriet of Cloth Habit, or the Beverly Johnson patterns aka” The Fairy Bra Mother “(I advise her BluPrint courses for that matter).

harriet bra Personally, I took the Harriet which seemed to me to best correspond to the style of bra that suits me … but I must also say that Cloth Habit makes very pretty pictures which influence quite a lot. With the experience, I would say that we must try not to be too influenced by pretty pictures. It is not a guarantee of a quality pattern, even if the Harriet is of good quality. Hmm … I’m not clear.

What I mean to say is that the photos of Orange Lingerie are less to my taste and that I probably made more my choice because of the photos than the technical drawing. And, even if the Harriet is really fine, I realize, a posteriori, that this is not the right way to choose. You don’t choose an apartment because of the colors of the wallpaper rather than the plan. 

During class 

The classes have gone really well, Marie is a great teacher and she knows her stuff very well. She manages to spend time with each student to make sure that the project is well personalized. On the supply side, lace, lining, elastics, rings, hook & eyes and underwires are provided. The course begins by making a toile, then we move to the adjustments personally guided by Marie.

Then we move on to serious things with the making of the bra itself. Cutting all the small pieces, assembling them with the burrito method, cutting symmetrically the lace, sewing the elastics and the underwire chanelling … It’s long but does not ask for a very high level of technique, especially when accompanied by Mary. 

Toile de l'Harriet BraToile de l'Harriet Bra

Toile de l'Harriet Bra

Toile de l'Harriet Bra

What was most difficult for me was the cutting and sewing of the marquisette which is very slippery, then the installation of the chanelling. 

Envers du soutien-gorge Harriet

The result

Finally, comes the moment of fitting. And well, beh. The bra fits me. Nearly. I’m too tight on the outer sides of my chest where I feel that the frame compress my ribs and the underbust band is wavy. In short, I’m not comfortable even if it seems good from the outside.

soutien-gorge Harriet

soutien-gorge Harriet

Even though I do not really have a wearable bra (by me anyway), I really don’t regret this Master Class. These classes taught me a lot in lingerie sewing, gave me confidence and the atmosphere was nice. 

In the next episode …

Phew, that’s already a loooong article, huh! Not too bored already? Anyway, I’ll stop there for today. Next episode, I’ll talk about the Watson Bra and the Marcus bra by Petit Patron. 

Sewing the Perkins shirt (Ensemble Patterns): look at me in the eyes!
Sewing bras: ups & downs (part. 2 – Watson)

5 Commentaires

  • 6 August 2019 at 15:54

    Merci beaucoup pour cet article. Il correspond à un questionnement que j’ai suivi surtout l’année dernière. Avec mon amie Nathalie des Serial Piqueuses, nous avions – presque – réussi à organiser un cours avec Marie Poisson. Malheureusement, il y a eu des défections et du coup ça n’a pas eu lieu. Maintenant, après ton compte-rendu, je continue de me poser des questions. Est-ce vraiment une bonne idée? Et si le sg finalement ne va pas? Crois-tu que pour toi le problème vient de la forme du sg choisi ou d’une mauvaise prise de mesures? Bref, tout cela n’est pas évident. Cela dit, je voudrais te remercier pour tous les liens que tu nous as fournis. De prime abord, je serais vraiment attirée par le Marlborough. Je garde ça à l’esprit au cas où.

    • 6 August 2019 at 17:41

      Je ne regrette vraiment pas le cours. D’abord, j’adore apprendre des trucs et Marie est une très bonne prof (pas comme d’autre…).
      Perso, je voulais faire mes soutifs parce que je ne suis jamais vraiment bien dans ceux que j’achète. Comme beaucoup de femmes, ma morpho n’est pas standard.

      Ma sœur m’a fait remarquer que j’ai la partie entre la poitrine et la taille qui est assez cylindrique. Pas en cône comme dans le modèle “standard”. Et les seins modestes en profondeur mais larges. Ce qui fait quand même de la masse. Bref, c’est vraiment une zone du corps compliqué. Si ça le fait dès la première fois, je dirais que c’est plutôt le coup de chance.
      Partant de là, et comme pour tous les vêtements moulés sur le corps, il faut faire des toiles et des toiles. Et certaines marques de patrons te conviendront naturellement mieux que d’autres…

      Mais attend la suite, ça t’aidera peut-être à te faire une opinion 😉

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