Sewing the v1493 jacket (Vogue Patterns)
Dots or stripes, I chose not to choose with this v1493 jacket from Vogue.
I had spotted this pattern on Instagram and then came the fabric quest to have a combo highlighting the so special sleeves.
Then, a few
weeks months passed… # moreideasthantime
|Vogue v1493 pattern||Vogue Patterns||1||5,40 €|
Dotted cotton Skäggoört
|Ikea||2 m||10 €|
|Stripped cotton Mettalise||Ikea||1 m||7 €|
|Cotton biais||Fil 2000||5 m||4 €|
The v1493 jacket pattern
This model is a Vogue jacket pattern by designer stylist KOOS Couture from I don’t know when but still on sale.
The v1493 jacket is unlined, very roomy, with pockets caught in the princess cutouts and side slits. Finally, its killer detail is in the “pagoda” sleeves with overlapping panels.
The level is noted “Advanced / More difficult” because the pattern provides for the inlay of all the decorations (lines & flowers) visible on the photo of the cover. But if we omit these inlays, the pattern is quite simple and fast.
There is no need for complicated adjustments, thanks to the rather loose fit, nor any closing system (zip, buttons).
The only difficulty is the pointed assembly of the lower part of the sleeve (the striped part of the sleeves).
I bought this pattern directly from the American McCalls / Vogue website during one of their many discount periods.
The pattern “normally” costs $30, but it is often on sale for $21, and there are regular sale periods around $3 for McCalls patterns and $6-7 for Vogue.
According to my calculation, you need to take 3 patterns to get the best value for shipping costs for France. Less isn’t profitable and more is exploding costs. At least it was two years ago, but since McCalls, Vogue & Co. have undergone reorganizations… the site is now called somethingdelightful.com. So maybe that’s changed.
On my side, I had also taken the v9253 dress that I had sewn and worn well and the m7726 pants that I had enjoyed sewing but whose cut wasn’t very flattering on me (despite my attempts to adjust them).
Sewing the v1493 jacket
The amount of fabric advertised is 2.4 m of main fabric + 1.5 m of contrast fabric.
In fact, the contrast fabric is intended for the famous inlays. Therefore, it is possible to do without it.
For my part, I sewed the M size based on the chest measurement only.
I’m above the measurements for the waist and hips by 4-5 cm but as you can see, it’s not a problem.
The pattern has pockets (yeah o/) and fully Hong-Kong finished seams on the inside.
In other words, if the jacket assembles quickly, the Hong-Kong finish takes time and meters of bias.
The explanations are pretty clear but I didn’t like the instructions for the pockets in the seams.
This method aligns the seams of the pockets with the assembly seams of the two front pieces… at the slightest offset, too bad. It shows.
And guess what? It showed!
So I prefer this method: https://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2017/10/how-to-add-in-seam-pockets-to-garment.html
I added a stitch to attach the pockets to the neckline band so that they don’t float around.
It is instructed to hand-stitch the neckline strip on the inside for an invisible finish.
I started to do this but finally, not too satisfied with the result, I made a visible black topstitch.
I sewed the shoulder with a French seam to make my life easier in comparison to the Hong-Kong finish.
It’s completely possible to do the same on the rest of the assembly seams or even just overlock if you really want to go fast.
But why speeding? Relax!
I’m so faaaaaan of this jacket ! I like everything: the fabric, the cut, the sleeves and even without the sleeves (seen during the intermediate tries) it falls superbly. I love it.
Its only flaw, I can’t wear it more than 2 hours before I stain it. I’m cursed with white. But it doesn’t matter!