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Skirt 106 B Burda 05-2012

I sewed the 106 B skirt from Burda, in yellow, just like the pattern in the magazine. And just like Mousse aka Le pied de Biche who introduced me to this lovely skirt pattern. Great originality on this one!

To be honest, this skirt, even though it was on my 2021 sewing schedule, I hadn’t necessarily planned it so early in my little mental planner. But when I was contacted by Pimsy to participate in the endometriosis fashion show… it was bingo, go ahead darling, we’re selling the trailer!


Hop, first project checked off my 2021 sewing project list!


ITEM SHOP QUANTITY PRICE

Skirt pattern 106 from Burda 05/2012

Un Grand Marché – second hand 1 5,00 €
Mustard emerised cotton gabardine Tissu de Rêve 1,6 m 11,60 €
Yellow double gauze remnants Stock 2 m 0 €
Mother of pearl buttons Stock 1,2 m 0 €
Yellow Bias Lafayette-Saltiel 12 m 0 €
Fusible interfacing Stock 0,6 m 1 €
Thread Stock 0 €
Total      17,60 €

Together against endometriosis, the fashion show

Let’s start with a little video where you’ll see my entire outfit from the fashion show, plus a little info on endometriosis (in French).

 
 
 
 
 
Voir cette publication sur Instagram
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Une publication partagée par (っ◔◡◔)っ (@so.miio)

March is endometriosis awareness month. And the colour of the fight against endometriosis is YELLOW to raise awareness about this disease that affects 1 in 10 women… including me! The symptoms of this disease vary from one affected person to another but pain is often one of them. If you want to know more, I invite you to visit the website of the Endofrance association.

The pattern for skirt 106 from Burda 05-2012

If you watched the video, you will have seen the complete outfit. If not, here is the catch-up with part of it. The articles on the hat, top and jacket will come later…

Idée de tenue avec la jupe 106 B de Burda 05/2012

Skirt 106 from Burda 05/2012 is an unlined flared paneled skirt, high waist, concealed button fastening at the front and slanted welt pockets with wide flaps at the opening.

To sew it, I could have downloaded it from the German or Russian site (given that the French and American sites are mega-super lame and don’t go back before 2017) but I preferred to hunt down the second-hand magazine.

Comment porter la jupe 106 B de Burda 05/2012

Concerning the explanations, it’s Burda.

No problem for the easy to sew parts: put the panels together. Unclear when it gets complicated: sewing the facing. Incomprehensible on the difficult part: the hidden button placket.

The Burda 106 skirt comes in 2 lengths: I took the shorter one which requires 2 m of fabric that I made fit into 1.60 m. Tetris, a whole unsuspected education.

In addition, given my size, the long version would have been a bastard length between too short and too long.

Amplitude de la jupe 106 B de Burda 05/2012

The skirt is nicely flared but doesn’t quite turn enough for my taste: it’s only a half circle .

Another problem is that the fabric catches on the tights when walking: the skirt takes on a super-hazy shape, goes up on one side but not on the other.

A hassle. A petticoat will therefore be necessary for autumn-winter.

Finally, the skirt has large pockets and I’m not going to go back on my feeling about the indispensability of pockets. If?

Sewing the skirt 106 from Burda 05-2012

Size & measurements

Following the measurement chart, I made a 40. After fitting, I took 1 cm in the middle back. It could have been a lot more but the facing in the same thick fabric eats up a lot of ease.

The multiple panels and darts make it really easy to adjust the 05-2012 Burda 106 skirt.

Seam allowances

As with any Burda from Burda Style, seam allowances need to be added.

I added 1.5cm seam allowances throughout as I had planned to gimp the margins.

However, as I am not well trained in this subject, I did not square the seam allowances correctly. On the photo below, the seam allowances should overlap neatly.

Well, it’s not a big deal, I managed. Here, I made a got along by marking the seam allowances.

Les poches de la jupe 106 B de Burda 05/2012

I didn’t want to create a lining… and I didn’t have any satisfactory fabric in stock.

So I decided to bind all the seam allowances. Yep. 9 seams to tape. 16 lengths…

…and half of this 25m roll of free bias tape!

When I went to Lafayette-Saltiel at the end of last year to stock up on quality tailoring interfacing, the lovely salesman told me to help myself to some of the supplies they were getting rid of. Nice!

Yes, yes, this roll was brand new and full when I started the project!

And as much as I like this kind of sewing task (no need to think + neat finishing = ❤︎) … I have to admit, it was a bit time consuming.

Envers de la jupe 106 B de Burda 05/2012

The button placket of the Burda 106 skirt

The original button placket places the buttonholes inside the placket to hide them.

But I wanted to show off my pretty buttons. So the buttonholes are visible.

Patte de boutonnage de la jupe 106 B de Burda 05/2012

This being said, I improvised this part since I didn’t understand the explanations of the button placket (just like all the people who blogged about this skirt on the internet).

I also got a bit stuck on the facing. In the end, I sewed the facing from the middle front to the middle front… not knowing if this is what the pattern meant.

To open the buttonholes, I have a new tool: square blades for my X-Acto scalpel/cutter. For 1,50 €, a buttonhole opener. Otherwise, there’s this one or that one too to avoid any slippage when opening buttonholes. 

The Burda 106 skirt hem

To make a nice round hem that doesn’t pucker, I basted a thread by hand so that I could gather it a bit and resorb the hem.

This is a trick I picked up from somewhere and it works perfectly.

I also sewed the hem twice: the first time on the right side and the result was ugly and did not always catch the hem. Unsew. The second time I sewed from the wrong side so I could see what I was doing.

Conclusion

I have finally indulged my secret obsession with yellow skirts and I really like it. It’s not that complicated to sew if you ignore the silly explanations.

If I had to do it again, I would probably choose a lighter fabric for the facing and maybe add a lining for more swooshiness.

Finally, I would probably add a hook or a snap at the waist to prevent the buttons from slipping off the buttonholes. Indeed, if I shift the buttons again, they would be totally out of line with the button placket and that would look weird. 

That’s it! See you next week!

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Jupe 106 B de Burda 05/2012

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6 Commentaires

  • 20 March 2021 at 10:11
    Anne Marie

    Joli travail ! Ce jaune lumineux est très seyant. Bien sûr, Burda, c’est Burda pour les explications. Il vaut mieux être un peu aguerrie en couture pour entreprendre. Bravo et merci pour le partage.

    Reply
  • 20 March 2021 at 18:48
    Mayana

    Cette jupe vous va très bien même si ça change un peu du style que vous présentez habituellement.

    Reply
  • 21 March 2021 at 05:47
    Fanfreluche

    Bravo pour ton interprétation remarquable du burdalais. Je suis moi-même une adepte de ce magazine et j’admets que cela demande une sacrée dose de projection parfois. Cela dit, ma maman a souffert de l’endométriose dans ma jeunesse et on lui a proposé la solution radicale à l’époque. Ce fut pour elle un grave choc psychologique. Je te félicite pour ton action.

    Reply
  • 28 March 2021 at 19:47
    Falbala

    Bravo pour cette jolie jupe qui s’inscrit dans cette belle action! J’adore tout particulièrement les finitions dont les finitions intérieures. Oui j’ai aussi souvent du mal avec les talons des marges de couture. Il faut déjà savoir au stade du patron comment les pièces vont être cousues ensemble pour les déterminer. Mais ce n’est pas toujours évident. C’est plus simple sur les ourlets.

    Reply
    • 29 March 2021 at 11:40

      Merci !
      Pour les platitudes des marges, je sais qu’il y a des règles mais j’attends encore l’explication claire qui me permettra de comprendre.

      Reply
  • 6 April 2021 at 15:18
    Eliflo

    Je la trouve magnifique, cette jupe, en particulier avec le tee-shirt noir!

    Reply

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