Skirt 106 B Burda 05-2012
I sewed the 106 B skirt from Burda, in yellow, just like the pattern in the magazine. And just like Mousse aka Le pied de Biche who introduced me to this lovely skirt pattern. Great originality on this one!
To be honest, this skirt, even though it was on my 2021 sewing schedule, I hadn’t necessarily planned it so early in my little mental planner. But when I was contacted by Pimsy to participate in the endometriosis fashion show… it was bingo, go ahead darling, we’re selling the trailer!
Hop, first project checked off my 2021 sewing project list!
|Un Grand Marché – second hand||1||5,00 €|
|Mustard emerised cotton gabardine||Tissu de Rêve||1,6 m||11,60 €|
|Yellow double gauze remnants||Stock||2 m||0 €|
|Mother of pearl buttons||Stock||1,2 m||0 €|
|Yellow Bias||Lafayette-Saltiel||12 m||0 €|
|Fusible interfacing||Stock||0,6 m||1 €|
Together against endometriosis, the fashion show
Let’s start with a little video where you’ll see my entire outfit from the fashion show, plus a little info on endometriosis (in French).
Voir cette publication sur Instagram
March is endometriosis awareness month. And the colour of the fight against endometriosis is YELLOW to raise awareness about this disease that affects 1 in 10 women… including me! The symptoms of this disease vary from one affected person to another but pain is often one of them. If you want to know more, I invite you to visit the website of the Endofrance association.
The pattern for skirt 106 from Burda 05-2012
If you watched the video, you will have seen the complete outfit. If not, here is the catch-up with part of it. The articles on the hat, top and jacket will come later…
To sew it, I could have downloaded it from the German or Russian site (given that the French and American sites are mega-super lame and don’t go back before 2017) but I preferred to hunt down the second-hand magazine.
Concerning the explanations, it’s Burda.
No problem for the easy to sew parts: put the panels together. Unclear when it gets complicated: sewing the facing. Incomprehensible on the difficult part: the hidden button placket.
The Burda 106 skirt comes in 2 lengths: I took the shorter one which requires 2 m of fabric that I made fit into 1.60 m. Tetris, a whole unsuspected education.
In addition, given my size, the long version would have been a bastard length between too short and too long.
The skirt is nicely flared but doesn’t quite turn enough for my taste: it’s only a half circle .
Another problem is that the fabric catches on the tights when walking: the skirt takes on a super-hazy shape, goes up on one side but not on the other.
A hassle. A petticoat will therefore be necessary for autumn-winter.
Finally, the skirt has large pockets and I’m not going to go back on my feeling about the indispensability of pockets. If?
Sewing the skirt 106 from Burda 05-2012
Size & measurements
Following the measurement chart, I made a 40. After fitting, I took 1 cm in the middle back. It could have been a lot more but the facing in the same thick fabric eats up a lot of ease.
The multiple panels and darts make it really easy to adjust the 05-2012 Burda 106 skirt.
As with any Burda from Burda Style, seam allowances need to be added.
I added 1.5cm seam allowances throughout as I had planned to gimp the margins.
However, as I am not well trained in this subject, I did not square the seam allowances correctly. On the photo below, the seam allowances should overlap neatly.
Well, it’s not a big deal, I managed. Here, I made a got along by marking the seam allowances.
I didn’t want to create a lining… and I didn’t have any satisfactory fabric in stock.
So I decided to bind all the seam allowances. Yep. 9 seams to tape. 16 lengths…
…and half of this 25m roll of free bias tape!
When I went to Lafayette-Saltiel at the end of last year to stock up on quality tailoring interfacing, the lovely salesman told me to help myself to some of the supplies they were getting rid of. Nice!
And as much as I like this kind of sewing task (no need to think + neat finishing = ❤︎) … I have to admit, it was a bit time consuming.
The button placket of the Burda 106 skirt
The original button placket places the buttonholes inside the placket to hide them.
But I wanted to show off my pretty buttons. So the buttonholes are visible.
This being said, I improvised this part since I didn’t understand the explanations of the button placket (just like all the people who blogged about this skirt on the internet).
I also got a bit stuck on the facing. In the end, I sewed the facing from the middle front to the middle front… not knowing if this is what the pattern meant.
To open the buttonholes, I have a new tool: square blades for my X-Acto scalpel/cutter. For 1,50 €, a buttonhole opener. Otherwise, there’s this one or that one too to avoid any slippage when opening buttonholes.
The Burda 106 skirt hem
To make a nice round hem that doesn’t pucker, I basted a thread by hand so that I could gather it a bit and resorb the hem.
This is a trick I picked up from somewhere and it works perfectly.
I also sewed the hem twice: the first time on the right side and the result was ugly and did not always catch the hem. Unsew. The second time I sewed from the wrong side so I could see what I was doing.
I have finally indulged my secret obsession with yellow skirts and I really like it. It’s not that complicated to sew if you ignore the silly explanations.
If I had to do it again, I would probably choose a lighter fabric for the facing and maybe add a lining for more swooshiness.
Finally, I would probably add a hook or a snap at the waist to prevent the buttons from slipping off the buttonholes. Indeed, if I shift the buttons again, they would be totally out of line with the button placket and that would look weird.
That’s it! See you next week!