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Breton men’s tee (Wardrobe By Me)

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This Breton men’s sailor tee is almost 100% Breton: the fabric, the seamstress and the recipient! But not the pattern…

This 100% cotton Saint-James knit was found during one of my 2020 visits to Brittany. I had immediately intended it for a sailor’s tee for my Breton of a father. So it’s done and gifted at Christmas.

ITEM SHOP QUANTITY PRICE
Pattern of the Breton Tee Wardrobe By Me 1 6,30 €
Maille Saint James à rayures Mercerie Les Créatives à Dinan 1 m 25 €
Thick thread n°30 La Réserve des Arts 0,50 €
DMC embroidery thread Stock 0 €
Classic and textured stretch thread Stock 0 €
Total      31,80 €

The Breton men’s tee pattern

Choosing the pattern

First, I confess a great disappointment in my search for male sailor tee patterns. I only found 2 for this great classic: the Breton sailor tee from Wardrobe By Me and the I AM Milor from I Am Pattern, the only French sailor tee pattern for men*. 

Bravo, 20 out of 20! In the land of Jean-Paul Gautier, frankly! Long live France!

The I AM Milor didn’t convince me with a neckline rounder than a boaty and no precision on the nature of the jersey to use.

*to the best of my knowledge, among the bosses of independent brands

The Breton men’s tee description

The pattern of the Breton sailor tee proposes a boat neckline (well not extremely boaty, but ok) with a simply hemmed, classic sleeves mounted on a straight bust. 3 pieces, front, back, sleeves and hop!

Above all, the website specifies that the pattern is designed for 100% cotton knits without elastane, the very traditional Breton stripped knit. 

La marinière pour homme Breton hackée

Sewing allowances are 7 mm (perfect for the overlock machine), 15 mm at the neckline and 25 mm for hems. Sizes range from XXS to 3XL with separate layers.

Wardrobe By Me is a Danish brand with an interesting range of mens patterns. I knew it because I downloaded (but never sewn) its free pattern of the Hera wrap top.

La marinière pour homme Breton vue de dos

Instructions

My graphic designer soul particularly liked the beautiful and readable presentation of the instructions booklet. It’s very pleasant to look at.

Apart from that, the instructions are clear & complete (inches, cm, measurements of the finished garment, quantity of fabric per size, etc.) with well-done diagrams. At the same time, there are no real difficulties to explain about this Breton men’s tee pattern… 

Sewing the Breton men’s tee

La marinière pour homme Breton vue de profil

L’avantage des bandes verticales est aussi que je n’ai pas à m’embêter avec les raccords de rayures

Assembling the pattern pdf

The printed pattern sheets are designed to be assembled edge-to-edge. But but, there is a but: when assembling, by superimposing the layouts, there was a 3 mm offset on each side.

So I had to take it all off and put it back on again. It’s OK, it was cool. Not FREAKING boring at all, I really loved the experience. ಠ_ಠ

La marinière pour homme Breton à plat

Frankly, I have no problem assembling PDFs. A podcast, a series that doesn’t ask too much of my neurons, a cutter, some tape and let’s go Dora!

But here, it was really painful, I had to check each alignment, crossing my fingers to make sure I was right. Under the pretext of simplifying the work, this put me at the mercy of the printer and asked me for 3 times more work. ޏ₍ ὸ.ό₎ރ


Message to the patterns creators: put on assembly marks on your PDFs. Damn.


There, there. On this primeval note, let’s move on to the next one: cutting of the pieces.

The geometry of the fabric

According to the saleswoman, that fabric had a “large width”. Mouis, then it’s debatable and above all it was crooked.

Let’s be clear, the saleswoman cut the coupon straight. At the same time, s’not over complicated, you just have to follow a stripe.

But this sailor tee knit was knitted on a round knitting machine (knit, knit, knit, love the sound of that). Then, in order to sell this fabric flat, the produced hose was cut… but not perpendicularly to the stripes.

As I had a Saint James label lying around (yes, I cut the labels off all my clothes and keep the prettiest ones), hop, sewn back on the sleeve.

So I got something that looks like a parallelogram instead of a rectangle. And what is the difference between a parallelogram and a rectangle? Yes, with sewing, you also revise the 7th grade geometry syllabus. Magic.

La marinière pour homme Breton portée par un homme breton

The Breton man’s sailor tee worn by a Breton man

Unfortunately, the patterns are designed – as a rule – to fit into rectangles rather than parallelograms. I know, it’s a bit narrow-minded on the part of the designers, but that’s how it is.

ANYWAY. So I had the opportunity to be creative in the face of constraint. Yay ! 

I created cut-outs on the front, cut in the opposite direction of the elasticity, with the stripes vertically. This necessarily poses a small concern on the ease of the model.

Size & modifications

As a result, I hesitated for a long time about the size to sew.

Indeed, this nice, slightly thick Saint James knit has only a tiny drop of elasticity in it. What’s more, I added to the difficulty with the panels in the opposite direction of stretch.

La marinière pour homme Breton portée par un homme breton facilement ébloui

The Breton man is easily dazzled

After much consideration, I opted for a size L for my father, who wears M usually.

The result is good, just right, it wouldn’t have taken less.

The tiny little remnants I have left. Not far from zero waste, are we?

In the end, I fitted size L, which requires 1.4m of fabric, into 1m of crooked mesh. We’re not on the same level as Jesus and his multiplication of loaves of bread but I allow myself to pat myself on the back anyway.

Final touches on the Breton’s men tee

The hems of the sleeves, body and neckline have been hemmed with a thick mustard-yellow topstitch thread. The neckline is a simple hem: the only viable finish on this kind of fabric.

Almost all seams have been topstitched in the same way.

Finally, I embroidered a little heart on my dad’s heart to let him know that I always think of him ❤︎❤︎.

The water-soluble stabilising fleece in action

That’s why I watched this video which shows 7 ways to embroider a heart to choose the optimal method for my project. I also used a water-soluble stabilising fleece (Soluvlies) to block the jersey during the sewing process. 

This was my first test of Soluvlies and it dissolves very quickly in cold water. You have been warned not to drool on your embroidery, otherwise the stabilizer will run off.

Une petite broderie sur la marinière pour homme Breton

And the little heart finished

Conclusion

This Breton men’s tee could have been a very simple project but it wasn’t really. However, apart from the tedious assembly of the pdf, the well-designed and explained pattern is not at all in question.

My father seemed very happy with his gift which he found very original with its vertical stripes 😉 Pfioo! The miracle of Christmas! 

This knit is apparently quite warm too as he didn’t leave it on the following chilly December days.

And that’s all folks. See you next week with a project sewn in 2021! At last!

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La marinière pour homme Breton brodée

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6 Commentaires

  • 19 February 2021 at 19:15
    Emilie

    Bravo, le résultat est très chouette, et vu ton métrage, respect ! C’est toujours un sacré challenge de coudre pour son papa…

    Reply
  • 20 February 2021 at 06:18
    Fanfreluche

    Ah ! Je suis sous le charme de cette marinière bretonne / danoise. Tu as raison de gâter ton papa. J’adorerais encore gâter le mien…

    Reply
  • 20 February 2021 at 08:42
    Florence

    Et moi qui croyais que les rayures verticales étaient dans le projet dès le début, pour sortir de la marinière banale !

    Reply
  • 20 February 2021 at 10:24
    annie

    Elle est belle et ce petit coeur, charmant
    Et aussi, le raccord des rayures n’est plus vraiment un problème

    Reply
  • 20 February 2021 at 11:51
    Falbala

    Très très chouette cette marinière malgré les déboires des mm récalcitrants et de la coupe du tissu! C’est très sympa avec les rayures dans l’autre sens, ça lui donne du peps!!
    Bonne opération.
    Je vais aller voir leur patron pour homme. Merci du tuyau..

    Reply
  • 21 February 2021 at 20:11
    Chantal

    Oh que de péripéties pour un patron qui s’annonçait simple 🙁 !! Mais tu as réussi, ouf !

    Reply

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