Modifier, hacker et coudre une brassière triangle
The advantage of a triangle bra is that it can be modified & hacked very easily…
After my first very conclusive test of the Bohemian triangle bra by Étoffe Malicieuse, I decided to make a radically different version of it to answer week 3 of the #inspirejulychallenge: “Cut-outs” challenge.
|Patron de la brassière Bohème||Étoffe Malicieuse||1||0 €|
|Dotted cream stretch & soft netting||?||0,3 m||?|
|White powernet||Mercerie Extra||0,4 m||2 €|
|Cream wide strap elastic||Réserve des Arts||1 m||0,5 €|
|Folded elastic||Réserve des Arts||3 m||1 €|
|Rings||Aliexpress||1 m||0,6 €|
|White band elastic||Evie La Luve||1 m||0,5 €|
|Cream stretch lace||Evie La Luve||0,7 m||1,50 €|
Modifying the triangle bra pattern
The Boheme bralette is a triangle bra which is, to this day, the model that fits me best. So I naturally took it as the basis for my hack.
The idea was to open the cups to leave the upper part open with a small geometric and strappy effect.
The white is to avoid an SM bondage effect.
First of all, to modify the pattern properly, I glued the top of the 2 parts of the cap together with some masking tape.
Be careful to superimpose the stitching lines, ignoring the seam allowance.
Here, the patterns from Étoffe Malicieuse are very handy since the seam allowances lines are printable.
Then, cut, cut, and off you go to cut the pieces from the fabric.
Sewing of the modified bralette
So we have this in terms of pattern pieces:
- a bottom (decorative) band of stretch lace
- 4 cups sides: 2 in polka dot fishnet, 2 in powernet
- 4 middle cups: 2 in polka-dot fishnet, 2 in powernet
I noted on the photo the order of stacking the pieces to obtain a hidden seam, or enclosed seam. #hiddenseamsaremypassion
If you sew them in that order, you open and tadaaa! The seam will be hidden in the middle of the mess and your delicate skin saved from itching. Whew.
Next, the seam allowances are slightly thinned out with scissors that cut well and the seam are gently opened with an iron.
Finally, a bit of topstitching. The half-cups are ready for the elastics.
Here, it gets trickier. It’s a matter of calculating the right length of elastic to sew on the top of the cup and the sides.
Concerning the top of the cup, I just sewed the pre-folded elastic without stretching it.
Finally, I would advise to put a bit of tension because my cups yawn a bit.
For the sides, I measured this on the original pattern pieces, removed 2-3 cm to take into account the elasticity… and finally I sewed longer just in case. Then I re-measured it on the original pattern pieces and marked it with pins.
Hmm… not so accurate as a tutorial!
Below is when I tested how and where I was going to fold one elastic over the other to form the buckle to slide the ring for the shoulder strap.
Then, just follow the normal directions in the pattern.
After fitting, I noticed some gaps and tensions that I re-balanced by adding the elastic between the breasts. And it’s finally perfect since I find that it recreates a triangle that also visually balances the thing.
There you go!
Above, you can see where it’s gaping a little.
I probably could have cut the lace a little shorter because it puckers a bit. But it’s okaaaaay.
Ah, I must point out that I did not follow the recommended length for the underbust band.
With Étoffe Malicieuse patterns, I often find the elastics too tight for my comfort.
For a test, I’m pretty happy with myself. This hacked triangle bra is totally wearable and comfortable. I forget it when I wear it, and it makes its own little geometrical original effect.
I have to add a pair of panties to it to make it into a shock duo… but I haven’t decided what I’m going to do yet.